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Best glue for headstock plate http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=6261 |
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Author: | dr.underhill [ Thu Apr 20, 2006 7:36 am ] |
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What would be the best glue for attaching a ebony headstock plate? |
Author: | A Peebels [ Thu Apr 20, 2006 7:43 am ] |
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Hide glue or origional Titebond. Al |
Author: | tl507362 [ Thu Apr 20, 2006 10:07 am ] |
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Super Glue ![]() Tracy |
Author: | Phil Marino [ Thu Apr 20, 2006 2:22 pm ] |
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[QUOTE=tl507362] Super Glue ![]() Tracy[/QUOTE] I've heard (or read) that a lot - that Titebonds II and III shouldn't be used in guitar building. I'm curious as to why. I would have guessed that the same things that make them waterproof (more complete cross-linking) would make them less susceptible to creep and maybe better acoustically (less rubbery). I understand that they may be more difficult to de-glue for a repair, but that doesn't apply to glueing up headstock plates, does it? Phil |
Author: | L. Presnall [ Thu Apr 20, 2006 2:42 pm ] |
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I've been using LMI white and the "Ebonoid" (sounds like something less than Ebony...like a subspecies or something...) headplates...Allied is selling them for $3.20 each and they look great under finish...I find the squeeze-out from LMI's glue is kinder to sanding drums and tool edges than Titebond, though I keep that around too. |
Author: | Cocephus [ Thu Apr 20, 2006 3:21 pm ] |
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Phil, It is my understanding and limited experience that the origional Titebond is ok, but Titebond II is water- resistant, and Titebond III is waterproof. They`re more prone to creep as they never set up hard. I have, however heard of and used Titebond III on bindings such as herringbone to give it a little elasticity. I screwed up and bought a gallon of III and found out that it wasn`t what I needed last year! ![]() |
Author: | Mattia Valente [ Thu Apr 20, 2006 6:53 pm ] |
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Titebond II (never tried III) sets up softer, less hard than titebond I, and numerous anecdotal reports indicate more creep. Only place I see Titebond II reccomended is for gluing up stuff that needs heat bending (like purfling layups, etc.) |
Author: | Cocephus [ Thu Apr 20, 2006 6:58 pm ] |
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One thing for sure, though. Titebond II or III won`t come out of your clothes no matter how many washings! ![]() |
Author: | tl507362 [ Fri Apr 21, 2006 2:42 am ] |
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It was my understanding that Titebond II and III show the glue line more than the original titebond, and that is why I don't use it. I was watching a very well respected Luthier(over 350 guitars built) glue some tops together with titebond, and when I asked why not use hide glue, he says that the joint shows more with hide glue. Titebond original doesn't show the seem as much. Although I've had good experience using hide on this joint with a nice clean joint. Go figure. Tracy |
Author: | L. Presnall [ Fri Apr 21, 2006 10:46 am ] |
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[QUOTE=Cocephus] One thing for sure, though. Titebond II or III won`t come out of your clothes no matter how many washings! ![]() Man, my wife can attest to THAT! (I gotta stop wearing her clothes out in the shop tho! ![]() |
Author: | Serge Poirier [ Fri Apr 21, 2006 10:49 am ] |
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I didn't know that sensible side of you Larry! ![]() ![]() |
Author: | arvey [ Fri Apr 21, 2006 11:28 am ] |
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Hide Glue is so easy to use that I always use it for this. |
Author: | Don Williams [ Fri Apr 21, 2006 11:37 am ] |
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LMI white glue is fine too. Hide glue, well, it's great, but I think a pain to use a lot of the time. For that matter, you could use polyurethane glue if you wanted. I've used Titedbonds poly glue and like it. I've heard that the Gorilla brand has some issues, but have never heard much to substantiate the claim, nor specifics about it. |
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